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THE WINE REGION

“Beer is made by men, wine is crafted by God.”

— MARTIN LUTHER —

Tokaj-Hegyalja, or simply Hegyalja. A region in the heart of Europe, which for most people immediately calls to mind the famous Aszú wine. Indeed, the wine region earned its renown from this “golden-hued” nectar, as even Petőfi himself mentions in his Travel Letters. Yet many do not know that Tokaj and its surroundings are much more than that—they hold many deeper treasures within. The region and its cultural landscape lie in Borsod-Abaúj-Zemplén county, along the Bodrog River, in a nature seemingly crafted by the hand of the gods. Those who visit the area can marvel at an unparalleled abundance of wineries and thousands of vineyards. The landscape is shaped by volcanic mountain ranges, adorned with carefully tended rows of grapevines. This exceptional harmony between man and nature allows for the birth of products of unparalleled value.

Wine, as a creation, demands to be shaped by the best hands; however, to earn the epithet “inimitable,” it requires more than just the craftsman. Tokaji wines are present from the very first sprout of the vine, for the region abounds in volcanic rocks, a presence that—alongside the unique climate—is an outstanding gift.

The grapevine is indigenous to the area, as evidenced by the tertiary fossilized grape leaf, Vitis tokayensis, discovered in Erdőbénye. The origins of local viticulture and winemaking date back to the 3rd century AD in the Carpathian Basin. It was Emperor Probus, Rome’s fiftieth ruler, who permitted his soldiers to cultivate vineyards in this land. During times of peace, these Roman warriors turned to farming their private estates, as military service was no longer required. After the fall of their empire, the indigenous peoples—the Avars, Celts, and Slavs—continued the cultivation, so that later, our conquering ancestors encountered their efforts.

“Of the aforementioned Tarcal, Árpád the leader, by grace, acquired a great land at the foot of the mountain where the Bodrog meets the Tisza, and there built an earthwork fortress, now called Himösudvar.”

Several legends support this, among them the anonymous notary of King Béla III, Anonymus, whose cited lines tell that upon entering the country, Árpád the leader rested with his army at the foot of a mountain along the Bodrog River. He sent Tarcal to scout the region. The leader reported splendid vineyards, and thus the land was gifted to him and his kin. The early Hungarians already possessed the knowledge needed for cultivation, having acquired it earlier through Turkish and Bulgarian connections. The flourishing of Hegyalja was brought to ruin by the Tatars, who wreaked havoc across the entire kingdom.

The rebuilding of our country is most closely linked to the then-king, Béla IV, our “second founder of the nation,” who sought to change the fate of the region. To replenish the population, he settled foreign Walloons, Italians, and Flemings in the area, who themselves were skilled in viticulture. These peoples and their labors can be observed in the names of nearby villages. The king himself alluded to this in a letter, where he refers to today’s Olaszliszka as Lyska. Following this, he ordered that new vineyards be established throughout the region to revive the wine district’s former glory.

PÁRATLAN A MAGA NEMÉBEN

THE ENCLOSED PLACE

The defining characteristic of the wine region is its volcanic origin. This is due to the fact that the Zemplén Mountains form the easternmost part of the North Hungarian Central Mountains. This range is a relatively young volcanic formation, which is what makes it so unique. Its shape resembles a triangle, outlined by three great peaks: among them, the Sátor Hill near Sátoraljaújhely, the Sátor Hill near Abaújszántó, and the Nagy-Kopasz near Tokaj. (Botos, 2016)

Most of these formations were created during the Middle Miocene, approximately 15 to 16 million years ago. In contrast, the last eruptions date back to the Pliocene epoch, about 9 to 10 million years ago. Nevertheless, rock finds have also been uncovered from the Ancient and Medieval periods, particularly in the regions of Vilyvitány and Sárospatak. The mountain range is asymmetrically structured, with both high peaks and smaller elevations present. Its highest point is Nagy-Milic, reaching 896 meters. By comparison, Nagy-Kopasz in Tokaj barely exceeds 500 meters. This variety stands as evidence that volcanic activity was extensive both in time and space. Thanks to this activity, the central parts of the mountains contain effusive rocks such as rhyolite, dacite, and andesite, while the peripheral areas are dominated primarily by volcanic ash and tuffs.

“Upon these hills dwell the gods of joy; from here they send forth their apostles into the world—the golden flames locked within bottles—to preach to the peoples that this Earth is no vale of tears.”

— SÁNDOR PETŐFI —

BOUQUET FUNGUS

BOTRYTIS CINEREA

The climatic conditions of the wine region offer a unique opportunity for the fungus Botrytis cinerea to settle upon the grape berries, thereby facilitating the process of noble rot. In doing so, it contributes directly to the creation of the region’s distinctive wine. This cherished drink has long been favored by kings, emperors, nobles, and high-ranking clergy—and to this day, it remains a treasured product wherever it originates.

While in other wine regions the fungus is often regarded as an unwelcome intruder to be eradicated, the people of Tokaj welcome it with open arms, for here, instead of grey rot, noble rot takes hold of the harvest. This transformative infection relies on three fundamental factors:

Humid weather, provided to us by the Bodrog and Tisza rivers, as well as the streams and brooks that flow down from the mountains.

An unblemished grape surface.

A dry period following the initial infection.

As a result of the rot, both the chemical composition and the physical state of the grape berries change. Their water content diminishes, while the sugar within becomes intensely concentrated, yielding clusters of shriveled, sun-kissed berries.

A hallmark of botrytized wines is their high glycerin content, evident in the slow, languid “legs” that glide down the inside of the glass like liquid silk.

OLASZLISZKA

VALLONS

The history of Olaszliszka has evolved hand in hand with that of the wine region itself. Throughout Hungary’s past, numerous events unfolded in which foreign forces sought to bring ruin upon the land. Among the darkest chapters in the nation’s life was the Tatar invasion. This occupation did not merely decimate the population—it nearly swept away viticulture itself.

Hungary’s revival is most closely linked to the reign of King Béla IV, often hailed as our “second founder of the homeland,” who strove to resurrect a realm condemned to devastation. To replenish the population, he invited foreign settlers—Walloons, Italians, and Flemish—who were skilled in the art of vine cultivation. Their presence and labor are even echoed in the names of several villages across the region. The king himself acknowledged this in one of his letters, referring to what is today Olaszliszka as “Lyska.”

Following this, he decreed that new vineyards must be established and diligently tended, breathing new life into the soil and the community alike.

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